Welcome to longlines. Notes, photos and articles from Europe, America, the Middle East, Australia and the Pacific will be posted here. All comments are welcome.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Murano Glass



They have been making glass for over 700 years.  The industry has survived invasions, competition, wars, the invention of plastic, changing fashions, and previous economic collapse.  In spite of the broken windows in the abandoned foundries, the rotting boards on the docks that speak of hard times being endured on the island, it is difficult to believe that Murano will not once again undergo a revival of its craft

The shrine was made of glass: a glass mosaic Virgin and Child in the Byzantine style.  The floral offerings on the ledge below the icon were moulded glass in red, pink, yellow, orange, and blue.  The virgin bore her child like a medallion on her chest.  Her glance, alert, almost fearful was caught by something to her right.  Her gaze, intense yet distracted, rendered irrelevant the opulent ornamentation surrounding her.  What, the observer could only wonder, was she looking at?  On this damp grey day in early spring the shrine gleamed, refracting the light caught by the glass mosaics.

On Fondamente Cavour the shop windows glowed.  Glass in a myriad of colours and forms illuminated the town’s shopfronts.

It is glass that lures Venice’s visitors on the 40 minute vaporetto trip to the island of Murano.

Glassmaking probably began in Mesopotamia 4,500 years ago, but it was the Romans who industrialized it.  During that period glassmakers travelled throughout the empire freely exchanging ideas and techniques.

Twenty years after the death of Jesus Christ, the technique that revolutionized glass production, glassblowing, was developed in Jerusalem.  Glassmaking became a portable industry, producing lighter weight vessels than the available pottery and metal.  It was cheaper as well, for glass is easy to recycle.

Some historians believe the original glassworkers of Northern Italy were descendants of freed Syrian and Judean slaves who spread their craft through the Roman Empire.  Whoever these early craftsmen were, the tradition of glassmaking has deep roots in the area.  By the first century AD Northern Italy was exporting small coloured glass bowls.

In Hemingway’s Across the River and Into the Trees Richard Cantrell extols the masculine virtues of the Muranese – their resilience, their fishing and duck hunting skills, their fecundity. 

With its rows of solid brick buildings along the seafront and the workmanlike steel bridge over Murano’s Grand Canal, there is something masculine about Murano, in spite of its delicate, dazzling products.

Yet Murano’s early history is not about glass.  Unlike the nearby island of Torcello, during the first millennium Murano produced no glass.  The Muranese were refugees from besieged Roman cities, hunters, fishermen, salt harvesters and boatmen.

The Via Annia, a Roman road followed the Adriatic coast as far as the glassmaking centre of Aquileia.  The road passed through the ancient settlement of Altinum, and here it came close to the shore of the Venetian lagoon, close to the inner lagoon islands, including Murano.

Refugees from Altinum escaped Attila the Hun’s invasion of Italy in 452 A.D. by fleeing to these sparsely populated islands.  Within a few decades twelve of the lagoon communities, including Murano, formed a cooperative council, the first step towards a Venetian Republic.
,
When the Lombards invaded Northern Italy in 568 A.D. refugees once again streamed onto the lagoon islands and the Muranese continued to work as fishermen, salt traders, hunters of the waterbirds that abounded in the shallow backwaters of the lagoon.  They also controlled the port on the nearby island of St Erasmo and generated income by servicing and trading with vessels that used the port.

The new millennium saw Murano’s fortunes on the rise.  Proof of this was the island’s acquisition of its own saintly relics in 1125.  The remains of St Donatus and some remains of the dragon he slew were brought from Arezzo and installed in the renamed Church of Santa Maria e San Donato.  In Byzantine Europe any city worth its salt had to have its own saint, and saintly relics.

Then in 1291 the Venetian Doge Tiepolo changed Murano forever when he closed down the glass furnaces in Venice and moved them to the island.

During the years that followed this move the Venetians tried to retain the lead in glass production in Europe by isolating the glassmakers and imposing strict secrecy laws on them.  They well knew the value of trade secrets. 

The move benefited both the Venetians and the Muranese.  Venice acquired the space left vacant by the departing glassmakers, and ensured that only Venetians would trade in Venetian, now Murano, glass. 

In return the Muranese were provided with their very own medieval-style state of the art industrial estate.  They were elevated socially and their daughters married into the families of rich Venetian merchants.  The craftsmen immediately began to expand their product range, revived ancient glassmaking techniques, invented new ones.  They kept the balance of trade with Europe on the plus side for the merchants. 

Today tourists visit Murano as part of the Venetian experience to tour the glass museum and those glass factories open for inspection. 

They are following a well trodden path.  In the Middle Ages Murano was a popular destination for visitors from Venice who went to enjoy the clean air and to walk in the gardens.  By the 15th century Murano was famous all over Europe.  People came to watch the glassmaking process. 

Within two hundred years all Murano’s ‘secret’ manufacturing processes had been copied in other parts of Europe and it was no longer the remarkable destination it once had been.

In 1797 Napoleon invaded Venice, ending over a thousand years of republican government.  After Napoleon the Austrians took over as occupiers.  During the following decades travellers in the lagoon risked being pulled over by customs patrols.  Books, food or jewellery in their possession were often confiscated and heavy on-the-spot fines imposed.

By the mid-1800s few people risked visiting the islands, except for the young and adventurous.  Byron, Shelley and James Fennimore Cooper were numbered among those who braved the lagoon trip.

Murano suffered a further blow when the Austrians built a deep water shipping lane from Mestre to Lido and the Muranese lost their income from servicing shipping. 

Glassmaking did not die out entirely, however.  Although only five foundries survived, by the late 1800s Murano was back in commercial production.  The foundries turned out glass mosaic tiles as part of the restoration of Venice’s churches, in particular the mosaics in St Mark’s.

The resilience of the Muranese saw them ride the economic roller coaster of the 20th century, the wars, the sudden shifts in fashion.  Vittorio Tosa Borella led the glass revival on Murano in the early part of the twentieth century.  He was followed by equally talented and farsighted artisans.  But the Second World War brought hard times for the industry and in the years after the war Muranese craftsmen worked hard to regain their popularity and their customer base.

By 2001 Murano was once again turning a profit.  One third of the 5,000 people on the island worked on their own as artisans or shopkeepers.  27 industrial glassworks processed 13,000 metric tons of raw glass a year. 

Such a run of good fortune could not last.  The world wide economic collapse in 2008 shattered the tourist industry.  The glass artists of Murano fought back.  For Christmas 2009 they put on their usual glittering, colourful public display – an antidote to the bleakness of the northern winter. 

On a damp grey day in early spring in 2010 small groups of tourists wandered past the brightly lit windows of the glass shops, or sipped coffee in the restaurants.  Few were buying.

By afternoon the rain was falling, rivulets of light flowed from the front of the shopfronts into the canal.  A sudden surge of children released from school filled the street.  The children skittered across the iron bridge.  Their mothers, impeded by prams and strollers, calling warnings as they struggled to keep up with their charges.  Soon they were gone, mothers and children, down the lanes and alleys. 

A Venice bound vaporetto pulled in.  The few tourists rushed from the cafĂ© beside the stop, jostled to board it without getting wet. 

In the momentary silence that followed the departure of the vaporetto the icon glimmered through the rain, the virgin still alert to whatever danger lurked nearby.

Observer

Friday, April 2, 2010

New?Delhi : Journey's End


The days in Delhi had been spent time-travelling – hopping from the era of the early Mughuls to the twentieth century then zipping back to pre-Islamic and early Islamic times. The increasing heat bearing down through the thickening humidity forced early morning trips to sites. Rajasthan beckoned. On that final day a dust storm swirled across the city while we travelled to the end days of yet another empire, to structures built over a village reputed to be the remains of the very first settlement in Delhi – the ancient settlement of Indraprashta.

We followed in the footsteps of kings and travelled up Rajpath to look at part of Lutyens’ Delhi.

Although many British architects were associated with the public buildings of New Delhi during the Raj, it is Lutyens whose name is remembered and who also evokes the most controversy.

Edwin Landseer Lutyens was born in London. His father of German immigrant descent was a minor painter of his time. His mother was the daughter of an Irish protestant policeman. Edwin Lutyens was a sickly child, the ninth son in a family of thirteen.

It seems apt that the government that gave the most opportunity to the English working and lower middle classes to acquire wealth and some status as expatriate workers in India should have commissioned a man whose childhood, if not exactly poverty stricken, was certainly not that of the privileged classes.

In 1911 King George V announced the British were moving India’s capital from Calcutta to a new site in Delhi. Lutyens, married to the daughter of a former Viceroy of India, was already a well known and respected architect in England.

In 1912 Lutyens served on a committee with Herbert Baker and Mr Lanchester to advise the Indian Government on the practicalities of building a new capital. Lutyens and Baker then drew up a plan over which they squabbled for years.

The government enclave was finally completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931 when the British Viceroy in India moved into his new vice regal residence on top of Raisina Hill. From here he could gaze across Vijay Chowk down Rajpath to India Gate.

Wide avenues may have been Lutyens’ idea of opening the city to the light, a reverse of the closed, often claustrophobic designs of earlier rulers of India. But on first arriving in front of the former vice regal residence, now known as Rashtrapi Bhavan and home to the President of India the view down the hill evokes images of despotic rulers and grandiose military processions. It takes a shift in perspective to view it for what it is.

An entire army could parade effortlessly down Rajpath. And that is exactly what it is used for. Each year on January 26, Republic Day, the Indian military parades its might before the celebrating citizenry.

Delhi residents are proud of the enclave. The Rashtrapi Bhavan has been described as “architecturally quite brilliant”. If you read nothing else about this part of Delhi, read Dalrymple’s description in City of Djinns.

He begins by saying:
“This was Rajpath – once the Kingsway – one of the great ceremonial ways of the world. It was planned as an Imperial Champs Elysees – complete with India Gate, ... But it was far wider, far greener, far more magnificent than anything comparable in Europe ...”

I will leave the rest for you to read yourself.

The maidan around India Gate at the foot of Rajpath is a venue for families to escape the claustrophobic clutter of the city and relax on cool afternoons.

Look at a map of Delhi. From the seeming chaos of the ancient lanes there emerges an elegant symmetry. The “wheel” of Connaught Place articulates with that of India gate. The two harnessed by wide roads to the oval of the President’s Estate.

Birla Mandir was completed in 1939, just eight years after the capital was moved to Delhi. During the building of both of these structures Gandhi was bringing the situation of India to the attention of the world, embarked on a journey with an inevitable ending.

Within twenty years of the Viceroy moving into his residence India was partitioned and the last occupying forces had departed.

Observer
Friday, 2 April 2010
http://longline8.blogspot.com/

Email: longline8@gmail.com


For a brief thought-provoking discussion about Lutyens and others involved in the design of public buildings in Delhi see
http://www.outlookindia.com/article.aspx?235665


Another worthwhile website:
http://www.city-journal.org/html/8_2_urbanities-architect.html

The following is a great blog from Delhi:
http://thedelhiwalla.blogspot.com/2009/04/capital-walk-raisina-hill-lutyens-delhi.html

Dalrymple on Lutyens:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2004/nov/13/architecture.india