Early Morning in Delhi – encounters with Vishnu and Lakshmi

The story that a Hindu saint told Mr Ghanshyam Das (G. D.) Birla that if he did not rebuild the Lakshmi Narayan Temple in Delhi he would lose his fortune probably has a basis in fact. Mr G. D. Birla had inherited the Marwari family’s money lending business, expanded, diversified and prospered.

He had become friends with Mohandas Gandhi in 1916 and financially supported Gandhi and advised him on the economic issues facing India. In 1926 Mr Birla was elected to the Central Legislative Assembly of British India. The 1930’s saw an increase in his friend’s radicalism – the salt march, Gandhi’s hunger strikes and riots between Hindus and Muslims.

At the same time Hitler was on the rise in Europe, and Europe and America’s emergence from the Great Depression was not following the optimistic arc predicted. There was political violence and famine throughout much of the world. In January 1933 the Pakistan Movement was officially launched. It was going to be a memorable decade.

Mohandas Gandhi agreed to inaugurate Mr Birla’s rebuilt temple on condition that it be open to people of all religions and castes, especially untouchables.

Mr Birla went on to build temples in many places in India, as well as hospitals, schools and institutes of higher education. The Birla family is today one of the industrial giants of India and continues to support and maintain the temple commonly known as Birla Mandir. For those interested in intricate and dramatic dynastic tales, a review of references to the family by The Times of India over the past ten years is entertaining reading.

The Birla Mandir is, appropriately, dedicated to Lord Vishnu the preserver and his consort Lakshmi the Goddess of prosperity and wealth.

The original temple was built in 1622 and renovated in 1793. The rebuilding between 1933 and 1939, ensured that almost all the gods of the Hindu Pantheon are now represented and, in a gesture of inclusiveness rare in those times, a Buddha shrine was included.

There is something refreshing about a Hindu temple – the combination of blatant commercialism with the crowds of poor whose tiny offerings of flowers and rice reflect the immense optimism of the human race; the open-armed welcome that these temples offer and the flamboyant, complex decoration; the gentility of an ancient religion and most importantly the inclusiveness that is true Hinduism. That this temple is open in the early hours while there is a hint of coolness in the air adds to its attraction.
Observer
19 February 2010
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p.s. Temple hours are 7a.m.-12 noon and 2pm - 9p.m, but always check first.